A British hedgerow is the most generous larder in the landscape, and the least obvious. It is a linear wood, a windbreak, a nesting site and a corridor for dormice, all squeezed into a few metres of tangled hawthorn and hazel. To forage it well, you need to stop thinking about what you want and start thinking about what the hedge is doing. Each month brings a different crop, and each crop has a rhythm that varies by a fortnight or more depending on where you are — a sheltered Devon lane runs two to three weeks ahead of a Northumberland hedge.
Treat the calendar below as a guide, not a rule. Walk the same stretch of lane every week through the year and you will learn more than any chart can teach you.
Spring is for watching. The blackthorn flowers first, usually in March or early April, a froth of white on bare black twigs before the leaves appear. Hawthorn follows in May. Those blossoms are next autumn's fruit, so resist the urge to strip young shoots — a hedge cut back hard in spring will give you nothing in September.
What is fair to take in spring is modest and green:
Elderflower season is short and sweet — roughly late May to mid-June in the south, a fortnight later in the north. Pick the flat creamy heads on a dry, sunny morning when the scent is strongest, and shake them gently first to let the insects drop off. Avoid heads that are already browning or dropping their petals.
By July the hedges start to colour. Wild raspberries and the first early blackberries appear on warm south-facing banks. Elderberries follow in August, hanging in heavy dark clusters. Rub a ripe elderberry and your fingers should come away with a deep purple stain; unripe green berries are best left alone.
Sloe season is still weeks off — the blackthorn that flowered in March is only now swelling its fruit.
This is the busy stretch. Blackberries run from late July right through to October, and the best ones are rarely the biggest. Look for fruit that comes away with a gentle tug and has a dull, deep shine — a glossy blackberry is often underripe and sour. August and September give you elderberries, damsons, crab apples and the first hazelnuts.
Hazelnuts are worth the effort. The nuts ripen in September when the husks turn yellow-green and the shells inside are brown. A squirrel will strip a bush in days, so check often. Sweet chestnuts follow in October, and sloes come into their own after the first hard frosts of October and November, when the fruit softens and loses some of its mouth-puckering astringency.
Some years the crop fails entirely. That is normal. A late frost, a wet June or a poor pollination year will empty a hedge, and the wildlife that depends on it feels that far more sharply than you do.
By December the hedgerow belongs to the birds. Fieldfares, redwings and blackbirds strip rosehips, haws and ivy berries through the coldest weeks, and these are often the only food available when the ground freezes. Take a handful if you like, but leave the bulk standing.
Winter is a good time for planning rather than picking. Learn which stretches hold the best sloes, note where the hazel sits, and record the dates things ripened. Next year's foraging starts now.
In England, Wales and Scotland you may pick fruit, foliage, fungi or flowers growing wild for your own personal use — this is not theft under the Theft Act 1968. But uprooting any wild plant without the landowner's permission is an offence, and picking on private land or in a nature reserve still requires consent. Some rare plants are protected outright, and sites designated as SSSIs have their own restrictions. If in doubt, ask.
The sustainable rule is simple: take no more than one in ten, or one in three from a genuinely abundant patch. Never strip a bush, never break branches to reach fruit, and always leave the highest and lowest fruit for birds and small mammals. Carry a flat-bottomed basket so berries do not crush, and pick into a container you can close.
Wash everything before eating, cook elderberries and sloes, and be certain of your identification before anything reaches your kitchen. Hedgerow foraging rewards patience far more than greed — go slowly, take little, and the hedge will feed you again next year.
Carry blister plasters, tick removers, a foil blanket and know how to call for help when mobile signal is poor.
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
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I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
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